Sunday, 16 August 2015

Of Beauty, Background & Eastern Belonging

Beauty is in more than just the EYE of the beholder … it is in the very SOUL. Without it, soulfulness, that is, things are just things -- no shape, context or meaning. And I LOVE beauty & beautiful things to the depths of my soul. If that sounds shockingly materialistic or shamefully shallow, well how’s this, I make no apology for it either! 

Tonnes of tuberose & jasmine Gajra (flower garlands) 
& their necklace twin below.

Cotton/silk materials used for
OneRoseOneRuby necklaces, emulate flower leis.

To have a discerning eye, a discriminating taste, an appreciative appetite for beauty (AND, by default, the artist, artisan, crafter, atelier who’s beautiful thoughts germinated into a tangible creation that so captured you) ... is, in my opinion, not necessarily a bad thing. The secret is in the economy of choosing & the reasons behind the choice. Everyone’s desires, motivations & ‘money-bags’ are different, of course, but the finding, filtering, flirting & fascination with objects of beauty are part of the dance of life, & sometimes even, the letting go of the need to HAVE them. (I’ve not ENTIRELY reached that stage yet!)

Hand-crafted choker of 24Kt (mesh) gold.
A (maha)Rani family heirloom.

Bangles to bequeath, betroth & 
bedazzle the subcontinental lady.

Sensually, transparent net-sarees with delicate Chikankari embroidery ... to be transformed for my shop!

I, for one, am a person highly sensitive to my surroundings. A bare wall & a beige sofa are an ‘emergency surgery’ situation in my home. I’m also the individual who buys ‘travel candles’ & lights incense in the loo, for, you know, devotion … to the dunny goddess! From the tenderest age (in my homeland of India), I have witnessed colourfully colossal din-dins to the deities, fulgent fashions fit for a feathered monarch, high-octane, fragrant festivities, the likes of which only the Gods can fully digest, & homes festooned with truck-loads of tinsel, that TALKED! All of this has saturated my inner-world with an intense light & vivacious pulse -- the volume & velocity of which are always on MAX.

Tinsel ... of the 'vocal' variety!
(Old Delhi -- Chandni Chowk market)

Colourful crescent moons at the Muslim 
marriage registry (Kolkata)

As a consequence, I simply can’t live without the warmth & glow of colours in my home that recreate the dazzling sunset over the Yamuna river, nor the contrasting sheen & coolness of exquisite alloys against my skin, echoing full-moon nights, collecting water from a well. I always ‘hear’ bracelets, ‘smell’ sandalwood & ‘taste’ rose-water in my creations -- for they are the essence of the Orient ... & the bed-time story of my youth.

'Teratali', tribal dancer -- 
the embodiment of extravagance
colour & cultural connectedness
(Ranakpur, Rajasthan)

 Pink, orange, purple & green
Agra, a river & a row-boat.

My 'OneRoseOneRuby' shop pieces are a living, breathing tribute to this heritage. Every fabric, sari, trim, filigree-design, sumptuous stone & swinging pendant is a sonorous song to the past, present & future of my creative life -- afforded to me by ‘accident’ of birth & the ‘provision’ of certain artistic leanings. These memories & personal accessories; hand-crafted, designed & created by me, bring me enormous comfort … & much more, they bring me (& hopefully others) immense joy & pleasure.

'OneRoseOneRuby' textiles, trinkets, tassels, trim ...
= my treasure & my toil

Pleasure, for me, is the ultimate reward for a life well 'spent' ... AND intentioned. In my case, this has been studying history, commerce & art, independent travel, living abroad (both in Europe & Asia) … and seeking & ‘speaking’ beauty wherever I go. Yes, for me, beautiful things need to speak. They need to teleport, translate in all tongues & transmit endearing energies. They need to remind me of certain events & emotions -- hold strong memory connections of some ONE, some PLACE, some TIME; a thoughtful, well-made gift from a lover, a congratulatory gift to self, one's first pay-check purchase, that dream-trip to Tangiers ... each offering a story of our likes, loves, tastes, traits & interactions.

Cairo's carpets. 
A middle-eastern melange & magical remembrance.

Antique Ottoman oil lamps. Turkey's got taste ... & talent!

There needs to be ALL of this, coupled with croon-worthy craftsmanship & a sharp sense of history, for a thing to have ‘value’ for me. In my world, you see, ‘things’ are not just functional ... they are EXPERIENTIAL, often emblematic & almost always edifying.

Mud-brick paintings & 
primitive places (Shilpgram, Udaipur)

A medieval marvel ... 
Kalna, terracotta temple carving.

I don't want to get to the end of my days with a storage-unit filled with meaningless fandangles that were de rigueur for a hot-minute. No, I want to own things, make things, gift, see & share things that stand the test of time ... that turn heads, start dialogues, warm hearts. I want my life & my painted tomb to say (like Tutankhamun himself) … I was here … I lived ardently, expansively … & I liked a bit of the good stuff! Xx

Thank you for making space in your day to read my post 
#This post seeks to articulate the 'SOUL' of OneRoseOneRuby & appears as a link on my website, under that tab/title.
#You can read about my jewelry process & dedication to the craft 'HERE' or ... 'RETURN TO MY SHOP'
#All Writing & #Photos by Rani.Cee

Friday, 5 December 2014

The passion, the process ...the PIECES -- Where glamour meets gastric heartburn!

Sitting in a rented vehicle -- ready to make the six-hour return journey to the small village where four generations of women in my family have annually convened to collaborate with fifth-generation artisans for the purposes of chai, chatter & creative jewellery making -- I'm taken back, & slightly aback, by the imminent, irrational roads & lanes of lumpiness we must traverse, the death defying obstacles hurtling passed, which threaten to take us prematurely to our heavenly maker, & the slightly surreal feeling that ALL the Ghosts of Aunties Past are watching closely, curious, slightly circumspect & ready with sharp tongues & shawls wrapped tightly around shoulders to critique my designs!

Overstuffed bicycles, bulls and bright 
lorries compete for space

Will they be pretty? ...Will they be finished? ...Too big/small ...gaudy ...articulated/interpreted the way I have imagined, sketched & explained for months & months via correspondence? Will anyone even like them?

One of my many earring designs

I sigh and say a silent prayer as I pass each & every shrine & temple along the way ...& the way is hard my friends.

Stuck for hours, on my own, on a precarious 1.5-meter-wide, 20-metre-high bridge, built back in the days of the British, with only the equivalent of a curtain rod & a threadbare brick separating you from certain death, not to mention an ominous 'skull & bones' warning of collapse if more than two vehicles cross at the same time, I have to ask myself two questions: Is this some kind of population control?  AND... Is the bling really worth it? 

The yellow bridge of angst

Oxen doing the rounds over the road

After a half-cocked symphony of whaling car-horns, buffalo horns, moustache preening (by taxi drivers, not me) & half-a-dozen useless buttons & boiled eggs sold to me through the window, we teeter on. We go past the impressive Muslim madrasah, tatty Tata car factory & the funky fish market (which I could get whiffs of two hours prior!) ...& I know now that the six-hour journey has stretched into ten. This is why they lovingly call it IST - Indian stretchable time! And you see, it happens all the time, & I've seen it all before, but each time with eyes agog & wonder ever increased.

School & mosque being mended

As we turn the corner at Haldirams sweet shop with the old plantain wallah (green-banana seller) crouched on the curb, crooning a melody to off-load his last bunch, I reach out to relieve him of his burden & instinctively sniff the skins -- because this, dear friends, most reminds me of my childhood; a childhood in this bountiful village that lasted a mere three years. Smell is such a compelling conduit of memory too colour ...& that colour for me, has always been GOLD.

Smelting the gold

Pretty soon, I am before it. It is unmistakable. ‘Warmth’, ‘Glow’, ‘Glitter’ & ‘Shimmering’ are my companions & when they welcome me with a bhajan (devotional song), a gajra (flower garland) a tilak (forehead blessing) & a sweet rose-lassi ...I know I am home.

The Ābhūṣaṇa kī dukāna (jewellery shop) is my happy homestead.

A countertop of traditional gold & onyx mangal-sutra 
(wedding necklaces) [Notebook & chai are also a must!]

My pieces are summoned like precious children. Lined up & presented with perfect poise.

My third collection of designs
& a few remakes brought to beaming life

There is great nervousness & expectation. I look them over, study their lines, angles & finishes. Measure, weigh, make note of errors, request small changes, and fend off pushy Aunties (unrelated to me) who gawk inquisitively. And before long, I have an audience of cutie Kewpie-doll girls, breathless brides & demanding-diva Mama-Ji's all ogling my jewels -- hence it's time for a private viewing.

Celestial Goddess admiring her bling

Most popular & practical in India, is to buy ready-made, ‘chunky-don’t-funk-with-me’ super lustrous sparklers. It is the Indian woman’s currency and still used as a bartering tool and dowry device in many regions. Some, though, have the privilege and desire for custom-made. I am fortunate to be one.

OneRoseOneRuby gems & 
materials for necklaces

A lineage of loyal patrons creates a distinctive bond, a special relationship, between the creative & the creator, the artist & the artisan, the designer & the maker. It's a mutual understanding & respect for the hand-mastered artform, the devotion to detail and reverence for imagination. But the challenge posed by going outside conventional or traditional design in an established jewellery house, wanting to maintain certain cultural standards -- together with the time management skills required to cater for me & a gazillion other more important clientele & the need to acknowledge each & every design as a work of individual, artistic, expression -- make for an arduous, painstaking process. It involves much time, money, effort, unpredictable (sometimes impossible) barriers & a palace-full of patience. When all goes well, however, it is the ultimate student-teacher symbiosis being the very contented student.

Sorting the stones

I design & make jewellery for adornment; for the pure, unadulterated joy of beauteous things for beauty's sake. Jewellery that enhances, enchants & transforms ...without any rendering to a higher order, no ill-conceived spiritual claims, condescending saviour-complex (helping little brown people out of poverty, while lining my own pockets ...How Colonial!!) or any particular intellectual pursuit. That is not my motivation or marketing strategy. Wearing my pieces, you will not become part of an elitist club or community of high-minded priestesses. I like to think of my jewels as having an objective beauty & universal value rather than a narrow, subjective worth. They are informed by my rich cultural heritage, fondest memories, significant travel experiences, sweet sentimentality &, mostly, my desire to create something different and special for you & me. I pay the gold & silver market price, the labour charges as asked of an established, ethical & prominent jeweller, extensive travel expenses & the privilege of protection & relative anonymity (unlikely elsewhere, including Kolkata). The risk of copy & duplication is nil. [That is of course, before I put them up on the Internet. Then it's game on for all parasites & other pests!] There is a high premium for quality & exclusive workmanship.

Intricate filigree earrings of solid gold,
a OneRoseOneRuby design.

So, to answer my own question, Is the bling really worth it? Well, when I frown, even cry a bit, become woeful, sometimes exasperated that the whole journey will have to be repeated, maybe twice, even thrice -- because the gold pieces have been made silver or the silver made gold -- I have to wonder if my dearest jeweller can also turn water into wine & drown my sorrows! The traffic jams, the choke-hold of diesel around my larynx. The heat, the dust, the careening trucks of doom, teetering on just two wheels (yeah, TWO WHEELS). The feeling of failure & disappointment, because only five out of 20 pieces materialised. Worrying about time and money. Pondering how often I can get back to India. Having to inspect every piece in person ...That's when the fear & doubt sets in. When the foolishness, self-pity & magnitude of the whole shebang starts to weigh heavily ... & then, THEN, I look outside the car window to see a 40-kilo, toothless, old woman carrying a 50-kilo stack of bricks on her head in the blazing sun, & I instantly snap out of it.

Clay-relief figurine carrying a load

“Get over yourself, I say. You have so many things she doesn’t ...most significantly, choice!” I've made my choice, now I just need HER unconquerable strength & determination to continue.

When I get back to the hotel & settle down into my floaty kaftan, the answer to my question bursts forth with a resounding YES! Yes, I will get back in that taxi tomorrow, brave the mechanical beasts on the street, suck up the black soot, cross that perilous bridge, buy a dozen unneeded eggs, muse over moustaches in traffic jams, high-five the banana-man, negotiate the jewels all over again & pray earnestly to the temples, shrines & ancestors of my past. You see, I NEED this connection & the cumulative courage of every soul I come in contact with.

On the other side of calamity

Heaven knows, it IS all worth it.

For when a person buys a piece of my heartfelt work, a sample of my soul, a study of my life, they will gain much, much more than they bargained for …They will have cried the cries & smiled the smiles and unknowingly journeyed with me Xx

View from my cab - a truckload of vocal villagers.
Thank you for making space in your day to read my post
#All Writing & #Photos by Rani.Cee